When I first saw photos of Étretat, my initial reaction was stunned silence. To be more precise, it was the type of sensation that you experience when something grabs your attention and holds onto it so tightly, that you feel short for breath, or rather you hold your breath for a moment or two as not to miss something important. After a couple of seconds though, I was convinced- “This must be photoshopped.”
So I started researching, still full of doubt that a place like this really exists. But to my surprise, it turned out to be quite real, and apart from the Instagram filters that people normally apply to enhance their photos, it also seemed to match the pictures that I initially saw. I became almost obsessed with the idea of visiting this place and seeing it with my own eyes. And it so happened that a few months later I had the opportunity to do so.
Now I am not going to waste your time with the dry facts regarding the population, territory or history of Étretat. I am not saying that these are not important, but you can easily google them. I’d rather just say this: Étretat is a small place, quite peaceful, far from big cities, heavy traffic and neon lights. It’s not the destination you’d pick if you’re looking for long shopping streets or busy nightlife. But it’s also far from boring. In fact, the short time I spent there was just enough to make me want to go back.
Situated on the coastline of Normandy, Northern France, nearly 30km away from Le Havre, Étretat is famous mainly for two things- its cliffs and the Étretat Gardens. If you catch the bus from Le Havre to Étretat, like I did, it would drop you right in front of the tourist information. The staff there was very polite, didn’t mind at all that I couldn’t speak anything beyond 5 words in French, and kindly gave me directions and a map.
Equipped with all the information I needed and plenty of enthusiasm, I made my way to the beach through what seemed to be the main street. I passed by some really charming little souvenir shops and restaurants.
Don’t be shy to stop by and take a look, as you can find some beautiful paintings of the local scenic landscape, postcards, mugs and other tastefully made souvenirs, which you might want to take home with you. Just make sure to bring some cash and learn how to greet and thank people in French- nothing too complicated, just a couple of phrases to help you get around. Keep in mind that many of these shops are family businesses for the locals, owned and administrated by elderly people, who are not necessarily fluent in English. However, a smile and a simple “Merci beaucoup” can go a long way.
Once at the rocky beach with the town behind your back and the sea going all the way up to the horizon in front of you, you have two options: either go left and follow the trail that climbs over the famous cliffs and their natural arches, stretching far into the sea, or go right towards the Étretat Gardens. If you are pressed with time, I’d recommend the second option- not only can you catch a better shot of the cliffs from a distance, but you would also get to enter the gardens, which are definitely worth a visit, but I’d get to that soon.
If you choose the second option, be prepared to climb up some steep stairs, but hang in there, because the view you’re about to see is totally worth it. You will end up on a cliff right next to the entrance to the Gardens with an old church in front of you. From there you can catch a glimpse of the little town below you, the blue sea and the magnificent white arches. I managed to capture some pretty good snaps of the dreamy panorama, but just a little heads-up- it’s really windy there. I actually had to crawl in order to get close enough to the edge for the shots, since I was carrying a heavy enough bag to drag me down with the first gust of wind. So if you are planning a romantic photo-shoot, maybe avoid short flowy dresses and make sure to put on comfy shoes.
Once you’ve had enough of the view (if there is any chance of that happening) and you are ready to move on, head to the Étretat Gardens. These are not ordinary gardens, no- this is an Eden-like garden, which also serves as an open-air art gallery. However, you are not going to see any paintings there. The garden is designed to be in harmony with the nature and to perfectly compliment the beautiful scenery surrounding it. The paintings are the views, which will reveal before your eyes, so to say. The art installations are either discreetly integrated in the flora or consist in the plants themselves. The most famous of them is probably “Drops of Rain”, the work of Spanish artist Samuel Salcedo- 7 big faces, representing different emotions. Looking at them, I felt that I had left the real world and I was at a place, where fantasy was no longer merely a fruit of someone’s mind, but rather something vivid and clear, which I could reach out for and touch. It felt also a bit surreal that everywhere I turned, I could see green- the favorite color of Mother Nature, but gently and simultaneously quite noticeably guided by a human hand. Plan about one hour for your visit, so that you can explore every part of it without having to rush it.
Entrance fees: While strolling down the town streets or following the tracks around the cliffs is free, you will be charged a fee for entering the gardens. Here you can find up-to-date information about the prices and working hours.
Getting there: I got there with the first morning public bus from Le Havre, which had a stop at Etretat. The buses are seasonal and their schedules may vary, so make sure to check their availability here. If you catch the first train, as I did, and plan to hop on the last train back, you would only have a few hours for your visit, so think of renting a car or staying overnight, if your plans and budget allow this.
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