Como- an epitome of the Italian dolce vita! With its scenic views, luxurious villas, yachts, little towns as if taken out of a painting and romantic setting it is a true paradise for the true bon vivant. Como offers everything the heart might desire- a variety of sceneries spilling from the slopes of the Alps into the crystal clear waters of the lake, gastronomic delights, sunny beaches, rich history and culture and hence an abundance of things to do and see. Often seen as the preserve of the rich and privileged, the lake seems like an out-of-reach dream for the common man.
Indeed the shores of Como have a dense concentration of splendid villas, fabulous hotels and guest houses and a long listing of activities, for which you need to dig down deep in your pocket (ex. romantic voyages in vintage yachts and flights in private mini planes). However, nowadays there are also many options for the less privileged ones to taste a bit of that sweet life. Feeling curious? Then let me take you on a virtual tour to the most captivating place around Como- the little town of Varenna.
How to Plan a Visit to Varenna
Reaching Varenna might be a little bit tricky and time consuming. I'd recommend staying there overnight if you want to make the most out of your experience. In this way you can begin your exploration tour early and avoid the hordes of tourists that start to arrive with the boats and ferries at around noon. One day would be completely sufficient for a nice tour of the main sights, but if I had more time to spare, I could easily spend a whole week there, just enjoying the scenery.
Unfortunately for us we were camped at the town of Como, which is on the most Southwestern part of the lake, while Varenna on the other hand is on the Eastern shore in the central part of the lake. We had two options for getting there: 1) catching one of the big public boats from Como to Bellagio and then switching to a smaller boat covering the itinerary Bellagio- Menaggio- Varenna, or 2) getting a bus from Como to Bellagio and then hopping on a boat. Both trips last around 1,5h, depending on the waiting times. The fare for a single trip by bus is around 3€, while the boat costs 10,40€. If you decide to buy a day ticket for the boats for an unlimited number of travels, it will cost you 23,30€. Here is a complete list of the fares and a schedule.
Bellagio- Menaggio- Varenna: the three main cities in central Como
However, there is a catch. Public transport (including the boats) are extremely crowded. You can buy tickets online for single trips, but this is not possible for the day passes. And let me tell you, when we visited back in the middle of June, 30 min before the ticket desks opened, there were already lines of 10-15 people forming. During rush hour there are easily about 100 people waiting there just to buy a ticket. So you must either sacrifice a little more money or more time if you want to reach your destination.
If you are not on a tight budget, I strongly recommend renting a car to save yourself lots of trouble. It is the best way to get around the lake, yet still affordable. Naturally, there are also private tours with "lake limousines", but these start from 1500€ for a 2-hour tour.
Once in Varenna
When you finally step foot on the shores of Varenna, take a stroll down the promenade. It's best to pass by Porto Riva Grande and to follow the waterfront alley until you reach Varenna's Ancient Port. This area is particularly picturesque: narrow tunnels with hedges, boat docks and colorful buildings fill the eyes with joy. And if that's not enough- there are a few gelato places to fill your stomach as well. I strongly recommend stopping by for a refreshing bite. Once you reach the gulf you will spot the popular Bar Il Molo. It reveals one of the most famous views around Lake Como, which also makes it quite popular among the tourists. If you want to stop there for lunch or drinks, make sure to book a table in advance.
Villa Monastero
Once you've had enough of the scenic area around the Ancient Port (if at all possible), stroll for about 10 min towards the main sight in Varenna- Villa Monastero. The complex consists of the villa itself, which is turned into a museum, botanic gardens, a cafe and a conference center. You can either buy tickets for just the gardens or for the gardens and the villa. My suggestion is, if you made it that far, take your time to explore both.
Unlike most of the villas around the lake, which are private (despite them being open for tourists), this one belongs to the province of Lecco today. Of course it was not always like this and the splendid villa frequently changed its owners throughout its long history. The estate was originally a convent for the nuns of the Cistercian Orden. After the years of bloom of the convent had long passed and its numbers declined to only six nuns, in 1567 the convent was closed. Not long after- in 1567 the estate was acquired by a wealthy gentleman named Paolo Mornico who was in the iron mining business. In the following century his descendants rebuilt the villa, inspired by different styles and architectural influences, thus determining the villa's appearance as eclectic. In the last decade of the XIX century, the villa was purchased by the German Walter Kees who undertook further modifications by expending the gardens and adding some Nordic influences. Finally the ownership was transferred to the Milanese De Marchi family, who donated it to the public.
From the entrance you will begin to ascend down the hill through the gardens and towards the villa, while panoramic views of the whole area will reveal before your eyes. It's not like a mountain hike, but flat comfortable shoes will save you a lot of trouble. Plan about two hours to make sure that you are not rushing through it.
Whether Villa Monastero is worth it… well, take a look at the pics below and judge for yourself. I do take some pride in my photographic skills, but even I must admit that its magic cannot be captured even by the best photographer. When I first stepped into its gardens my first thoughts were “If Heaven exists then it must look something like this”. The impressive flora, the romantic old-times architecture, tastefully combining elements from different influences and styles, the stairs leading directly to the crystal clear waters of the lake- all of this coexist in perfect harmony. The villa does not disturb the balance of the nature surrounding it, but perfectly complements it by accommodating flawlessly the highlights of the scenery. And even during the busy hours, when the place fills up with the voices of visiting tourists, a sense of tranquility and timelessness prevails around.
A truly impressive sight, although still not my most favorite spot in Varenna. The first place in my heart is reserved for Castello di Vezio.
Castello di Vezio
Standing strong on one of the peaks overlooking the little town of Varenna for more than a thousand years now, Castello di Vezio is a lesser known sight, but an absolutely captivating one.
You can either hike from the town to the peak, which will take you about one hour, or you can take a taxi like we did. In this case you will get there in about 5 to 10 min. A cool thing about the taxi services in Varenna is that there are no big expensive taxi companies. In fact there are three people with their own cars who provide such services in the area. Their personal names and phone numbers are published on a sign at the Varenna railway station. You simply call them, ask if they are free and if yes, tell them from where they can pick you up. We called the first number on the list and came across a kind lady who took us about 5€ in total for the fare from the railway station to the castle.
We arrived there at around 3 pm, which turned out to be a great time for a visit as there were almost no tourists. The entrance ticket comes at 5€ for adults and 3€ for seniors and students. The whole complex consists of a fortress with watchtowers and armory, dungeons and beautiful gardens with panoramic views. Although the origins of the castle are not completely clear, it is believed that it was an important military base already in the late Antiquity. Due to its geographic position, the castle is a great signaling point and a watchout for the nearby roads and the whole lake. Another theory is that in medieval times (between the XI and XII centuries) the Lombardian queen Theodelinda commissioned the construction of the castle.
At the entrance there is a pleasant outdoors restaurant, from where you must purchase your entry tickets. They also make delicious slushies to- go there (the cappuccino flavored one was bomb). On the alley between the restaurant and the castle you will notice some bird cages. It is worth mentioning here that there is a falconry and regular falcon demonstrations, which take place there. We were not lucky to catch one, but if you are planning a visit, make sure to check the schedule here.
You can climb up the watchtowers of the castle, which not only hold a collection of swords and armor, but also reveal one of the most beautiful views of the lake. Once you are done with the towers, head downhill for the dungeons. They are deep down underground, protected by skeletons in armor and the hooded reaper. The atmosphere is so authentic that it gets a bit spooky if you are alone there.
And as I said spooky, you will notice in many places around the gardens statues of mysterious ghostly figures. It took me a while to find out what is the story behind these eerie sculptures. It turned out that they are plaster casts made every year by the team that maintains the castle. In fact tourists can volunteer to have the casts fitted to them. There is a legend surrounding the aforementioned queen Theodelinda. She spent the last years of her life in the castle and wanted to leave behind a church and an oratory at this place, but this wish of hers was not fulfilled. This binded her to this world and the legend says that her ghost wanders around the estate on moonless nights. The sculptures are a physical representation of this legend.
For me Castello di Vezio felt really special because of the peace and quietness that ruled around this grand monument of the past. Despite it being in one of the most visited towns at the lake (if not in Italy), it seemed a bit hidden from the countless groups of tourists and thus unspoiled by human presence. Besides that, when I first stepped on one of its terraces to see the view stretching all around, I was short of breath for a second- I was so unprepared for the beauty that revealed itself before me. I also found for myself something symbolic in the way the complex is organized: from the high towers, scraping the blue cloudless skies, through the peaceful gardens, to the deep dark dungeons at the lowest point- all connected with the stone stairs that people constantly climb up and down. It felt almost as a representation of the journey, which each of us takes, and all the possible realms we can inhabit.
I hope you enjoyed this journey throughout Varenna. The small town is very representative of the type of sights you can see around Como, as it has a little bit of everything- beautiful nature, stunning villas, historical sights, narrow streets and beautiful gardens. What makes it special is that it offers a beautiful constellation of it all.
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