Although renowned for its strong and proud traditions in whiskey and Guinness production, Ireland is not the first country that pops to mind when one thinks of culinary destinations. In fact, I bet that, unless you are Irish or you lived in Ireland for some time, you will have a hard time naming any traditional Irish foods. The goal of this article is to change this, as I believe that Ireland has some rich, hearty, and absolutely delicious dishes, which fill up your belly as much as your soul. I had the privilege of visiting the Emerald Isle recently and I personally tasted all the dishes, I am about to introduce to you below. So, sit back, give me the next 5 min of your time and maybe have a snack ready- I assume you’ll be hungry after reading this.
What is typical for the Irish Cuisine?
The local traditional food is strongly influenced by the weather and the resources available on the island. Naturally, there is a lot of seafood as Ireland is a small island and therefore fish and shellfish are consumed in big amounts. You have a great variety of choice when it comes to oysters, clams, lobsters, so if this is your thing- go for it. These are fresh and the locals know how to prepare them well. At the same time, the mostly rainy and chilly weather, contributes to predominantly warm meals, stews, and bakes. The green grassy scenery results in good conditions for having cattle on the island, mostly sheep, but also cows. So naturally, lamb, beef and high-quality dairy products and butter are a staple in local cuisine. I find the Irish to be also quite practical with the provisions available, as they seem to creatively combine simple ingredients into economic dishes, without compromising the flavor. This is probably a result of the long years of famine, during which the locals had to make the most out of the little they had.
Seafood Chowder and Soda Bread
Now, these two do not necessarily go together and you can also taste each of them individually if you prefer. But in most restaurants serving traditional food, especially in the Temple Bar area, they are served together. For me this was actually a great opportunity to taste both with just one order, not to mention that they complement each other perfectly. If you haven’t heard of chowder before- it is a type of creamy soup, cooked with fish and seafood. The name derives from the French three-legged cooking cauldron "chaudiere". Mine had salmon and clams in it, nicely flavored with dill. It was thick and hearty, with one serving being surprisingly filling. At first, I was a bit reluctant to try it, as I had this prejudice in my mind that I would not like it. It is good that I manage to fight such prejudice while travelling, so I can experience a place through a bite of its flavors and aromas. I am not the biggest fan of seafood, I must admit, but I enjoyed the chowder greatly and would go as far as to search for the recipe and try to prepare it myself at home. There is something incomparably satisfying about spending a whole day outside, exposed to the chilly Irish climate, sightseeing and enjoying the Irish scenery and crisp air, and ending the day a cozy warm pub with live music, just to treat yourself to a mouthwatering warm soup with yummy bread.
As for the Irish soda bread, it comes in different varieties. What unites them all is that the dough is prepared without yeast, but with baking soda, shortening the whole preparation process and making this an easy and uncomplicated, yet utterly delicious bake. It is normally served with Irish butter…and trust me, you don’t want to skip on the butter. I don’t know what it is about Irish butter- maybe due to the natural greenery of the scenery the cattle get better nutrition, but the butter simply tastes superior. In most traditional restaurants the local dishes come with a serving of soda bread and butter, but you could also ask for it additionally. If you want to try a special rather sweeter version of it- go for a Spotted Dog soda bread. It is made with sugar and sultans.
I had my tasting in The Old Storehouse, in the heart of Temple Bar. It has live music, which is why it tends to be crowded in the evenings (even during the week). So, either book a table in advance or prepare to wait a bit in line to be seated. Either way, it is totally worth it- the service is great, the atmosphere is warm and welcoming, and the food left nothing to wish for. We had a taste of the chowder with soda bread (sublime), the Guinness stew and a serving of fish and chips, all of which tasted amazing. If music and noise are not necessarily something you are up to while eating, you can ask to be seated on one of the tables upstairs.
Full Irish Breakfast
Before you rule this out as something too familiar and thus not exciting, keep in mind that although comparable to the Full English Breakfast, the Irish one has its own special flair and a local touch. Indeed, it usually combines eggs, bacon, baked beans, sausages, a grilled mushroom, grilled tomatoes, some form of potatoes (roasted or hashbrown), bread, butter and jam, but what really makes it stand out is its most controversial component- the black or white pudding. It is also known as drisheen and it is a type of blood sausage, which makes many people hesitant to try it. It consists of pig’s blood, onion, spices and oatmeal or barley (probably why it is called pudding). Give it a try, as the flavor is unique and rather pleasant. Also, it is worth mentioning that the bread in the Irish breakfast could often be (you guessed it) Irish soda bread or boxty. Normally, Irish take tea and orange juice with the full breakfast, but we opted for coffee instead, because we were eating at the Dublin café with the most iconic coffee art, namely Beanhive Coffee at Dawson St. It is self-served and if you come for breakfast and coffee, make sure to save some space also for their sweets- they have cakes, brownies and enormous muffins…a lot of vegan options, too. Keep in mind that the place is not very big and seating space might be limited. But with a bit of luck, we managed to get a nice big table outside even without booking in advance.
Boxty
If I have to choose one food that I liked the most while in Dublin, it’s probably boxty. It is a type of savory potato pancake, and it comes in a wide range of varieties- from a simple quick bite, served with sour cream, to a fancy meal that comes with different toppings. And if you want to opt for the more elevated version, Gallaghers Boxty House is the right place. I ordered the Chicken Boxty, which comes with grilled chicken and a special creamy sauce made of chorizo and leek. I was so delicious that I scraped every little bit off my plate. The have most of the other traditional foods there as well, so you can choose from different Irish specialties. But if you are hesitating, go for the boxty- chowder, Irish stew and so on you can have in basically every pub. But not everywhere do they serve boxty.
A proper boxty uses a combination of grated raw and mashed boiled potatoes, which are mixed into a dough, shaped, then fried until golden and crispy on the outside. Inside they shall be fluffy and soft. Alternatively, although not so commonly, boxty could also be baked in a loaf pan and is then ticker. It consists of only a few simple ingredients, making it an easy and economic meal. Boxty has been present in the Irish cuisine since 1700’s and for a good reason- it is simply irresistible. There is even and old Irish folk saying dedicated to it, which goes like this: “Boxty on the griddle; boxty on the pan. If you can’t make boxty, you’ll never get a man!”
Irish Coddle
Contrary to the boxty, I did not enjoy this dish all that much, even though it sounded like the perfect comfort food in theory. Although I probably didn’t give it a fair chance- I tried it at the same night and in the same restaurant, in which I had the chicken boxty. And I imagine that after that heavenly boxty, nothing will taste half as good. So maybe give it a go but make a full meal out of it only…with a side of some soda bread of course. I personally would like to try it again my next time in Dublin. The coddle is a type of stew, traditionally made of chopped up pork sausage, bacon, potatoes and some other vegetables mixed in the sauce. Some variations of it could also include barley. It originates in Dublin. Again, it is astonishing how practical the Irish handle leftovers by cooking a completely new warm meal out of them. And the coddle is just one example for it. The ingredients are steamed, rather than grilled or roasted. In fact, the name of the dish comes from the verb “to coddle”, which means to cook food in warm water below its boiling point. If I am completely honest, the potatoes, sauces and veggies in the dish tasted quite nice and comforting. I just wasn’t the biggest fan of the boiled sausage. Of course, this is all a matter of personal preference and as a staple in the Irish cuisine, the coddle deserves attention.
Worth to Mention
Keep in mind that Dublin is expensive and eating out normally comes pricy. Moreover, tipping is customary and even expected and is not included in the price of the meal. Normally when you are ready to settle the bill, you will be handed the check on a piece of paper, and you can mark the percentage you want to leave as a tip. Those are commonly 10%, 12% or 15% and most places would have this pre-calculated for you to only circle out, so you don’t have to do the math.
Even the “budget-friendly” eateries serve a warm meal on an average price of around 15-20€ per person. We had the chance to eat in a couple of these, and although not really traditional, the food was still amazing. Those are typically cafes with self-service, so tipping is still an option, although you could leave something if you enjoyed the food. I am listing a few of them below.
If your budget is very tight, that doesn’t mean of course that you must starve. You can always grab a delicious bite from the city’s many splendid bakeries or even from the supermarkets. Some supermarkets, like Spar, even give you the option to make your own sandwich with ingredients of your choice and slightly toast it for you (just like in the Subway chain). There are also pre-cooked meals and meal deals. Also, the Spotted Dog soda bread is usually not available in restaurants, but you can find it in the bakeries. And remember, the further you go from the Temple Bar, the more affordable the restaurants tend to be.
Traditional restaurants, recommended to us from the locals:
Budget friendly, yet utterly delicious
Beanhive Coffee, serving pastries, Irish breakfast, brownies and really good coffee (self-service)
Bibi’s, a café offering fresh daily baked cakes, brownies, quiches, scones with cream and jam, yummy grilled sandwiches.
Keogh’s Café, fresh bakes, scones, sandwiches, delicious pasty and other warm meals, amazing coffee and homemade ice tea (self-service)
Cornucopia, cafeteria style eatery with great atmosphere, offering fresh salads, soups, warm dishes, sandwiches and pastries (vegan)
A delicious quiche at Bibi's and Tuscany Pasta at Keogh's cafe
As you can see, the Irish culinary scene has much to offer other than burgers, fish and chips and steaks. I hope this article has inspired you to explore more during your next visit of the Emerald Isle.
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