Top 3 Locations
The small town with the big old leaning tower has a lot to offer to the world, especially in terms of wine and culinary traditions. Although it hosts one of the most recognizable buildings in the world, it is often a half-day-trip destination for the mass- tourist, making it relatively calm the further you go from the tower… and also quite affordable. So, loosen your belts, because you’re in for a treat!
Be Prepared
A couple of things you should know before you commence your culinary journey: service is normally included in the bill, although tips are always well appreciated, and after lunch at around 3 PM most places close and open again for dinner. And even if some restaurants open their doors again for an early dinner at 6 PM, for many places this means 7:30 PM or later.
My advice is- avoid the places located right at the Piazza dei Miracoli. They are normally very touristy and crowded. Step just 100 metres away and you would find amazing local bistros- often family businesses, where you can find not only top-quality service, but also mouth-watering food.
The Family Restaurant Experience
One such place, which I cannot recommend enough is La corte di San Leonardo. It is a family business, so basically you can taste home-made Italian food. The atmosphere is quite pleasant and they also have a beautiful garden if you prefer to eat outside. My food was served by the chef himself, who even advised on the best way to enjoy it. Talk about attentiveness and a homey setting!
Try the Toscan soup with bread and sprinkle some olive oil on top (a recommendation of the chef). But be prepared- it is very filling. It looks more like a thick stew rather than a soup, but you won’t be disappointed by the flavour. It was so heart-warming and delicious- like something grandma would cook. If you don’t feel like overeating, then maybe stop with the soup…and perhaps a dessert- it is a well- known truth human beings have a spare stomach only for dessert. I myself arrived there quite hungry from all the sightseeing and approached the idea of getting full only with a soup quite sceptically. You see, my expectations were that I would get a clear broth (probably with a side of bread). So, I also ordered a pizza to make sure I wouldn’t go on with my tour of Pisa empty- stomached. I was so full by the end of the first course, that I could barely eat a whole piece of the pizza and believe me, that was an absolute waste, because it tasted phenomenally. I got a Margherita- they say the less ingredients your round crispy savoury pie has, the better you can test the skill of the cook. And our cook delivered, as this was pure, rich- flavoured, stone-oven-baked deliciousness.
Don’t miss the chance to try some local drinks as well and I am not necessarily only talking about wine. Grab a refreshing iced tea or even better- a Chinotto. It is a drink you might as well never find outside of Italy (or the good Italian restaurants outside of Italy)- an aperitivo lemonade. You may wonder “What is an aperitivo lemonade?”. Well, it is a type of soft drink with a bitter aftertaste, which you normally drink before eating. Bitter drinks are said to stimulate the appetite. How this works is they stimulate the production of saliva and stomach acid. It has a unique flavour, so put it on your list of things to try there.
Gelato is a Must
Once the feeling of fullness wears out and you are ready to taste something else, head to the river for some home-made gelato. Gelato is a must- try while in Italy. In fact, it is an unwritten rule that you have to eat it at least once per visit of the boot-shaped peninsula. Gelato is the Italian word for ice cream. Generally, both gelato and “regular” ice cream have milk, cream and sugar for a base. The difference is in the proportions, with gelato using more milk than cream, which contributes to a more intense flavour. Now I can write a whole scientific study on gelato, but this would not change one simple truth. The best way to learn what it is would be to taste it. A great place to try is Gelateria De’ Coltelli. They make a few flavours of gelato and frozen yogurt, as well as ice cream sandwiches and sundaes. You can never go wrong with chocolate or vanilla, but I recommend trying some of the more unusual flavours like peach, pineapple or sheep milk yogurt. You’ll be short on sitting space there, but fear not- the place is conveniently situated right on the riverbank. So you can grab your cone of goodness and sit somewhere around Arno. That’s the best way to enjoy gelato on a hot summer day anyways.
Care for Some Homemade Pasta?
At the end of a tiresome day of walking around Pisa, you might already consider dinner and a cosy bed. But before you go to the second one, head to Ristorante alle Bandierine for the first one. The star on the menu- homemade pasta…although if you are lucky, you might actually spot a real star. The place seems to be popular with celebrities coming to Pisa as you will see proudly hung on the wall close to the entrance the portraits of prominent people (both Italian and not) who dined here. It has a bit of a vintage vibe with red and white squared tablecloths, wine racks and arched ceilings. Make sure to either come early or make a reservation in advance. They make all kinds of homemade pasta- spaghetti, fettuccine, penne, tagliatelle- you name it. But they also offer daily specials, which are not on the menu, including pasta of the day. There are also vegetarian options for those of you who avoid meat. I personally tried the bruschetta mix, the pasta of the day- with asparagus and lemon sauce, accompanied with a glass of the house wine. The taste- exquisite. The staff was also very friendly and attentive. It has pay-at-the-exit system, so do not be surprised.
So we’ve tried a local specialty, homemade gelato and pasta and aperitivo lemonade. What’s next? Head to Florence for the world’s most delicious sandwiches.