Everyone knows the leaning tower of Pisa. It is one of the most recognizable buildings in the world. It attracts thousands of tourists daily, who come to marvel at its glorious imperfection, to take a fun photo, demonstrating their attempt to keep it up and standing and then hand back home, without ever giving the city another chance. Ok, but what is there to see besides the tower? Is that really all that one of the most visited cities in Tuscany can offer? Let’s find out!
What to plan
Pisa is a relatively small and walkable city. If you only have a day to explore it, this is fine- you can cover possibly everything that I will enlist below. Thanks to its size and the proximity of the sights to one another, you can also easily navigate within Pisa, without having to rely on public transport- simply walk. In fact, this is something that I would rather recommend, because the city transportation is horrendous. The only means of public transport are busses, but they are never on time, they switch routes on a whim and there are no information boards to tell you when the next bus is coming. You must rely on the information on the local Italian website, which provides the schedules (only in Italian language), but even there they are not exact. Also, if you check your itinerary from the Pisa Airport to the tower on Google Maps before you arrive, you will probably see that there is a direct buss, which only takes 12min to take you to the location. Well, don’t rely on that! When trying to buy a bus ticket for this line at the airport, we were told that it no longer existed. Still, on our last day we were stuck at the bus station for 40min, waiting for another bus, recommended by the locals…and the abovementioned supposedly non- existing direct line stopped by…but it turned out it was with a changed itinerary. So what can I tell you- charge your smart watch and count your steps, because you might break some personal records while there.
Oh, and one last thing- if you are at least two people travelling together and sharing the costs, a taxi from the tower to the airport is already a better deal. We paid 12€, while for the bus to the Pisa Centrale railway station (€ 1.50 for a single trip) and for the shuttle train from the station to the airport (5€ for a single trip) the same is 13€ for two people. Also, the taxi ride took less than 10min, while the alternative with the waiting times might account for 40- 60min (in our case for 40min the bus didn’t even come).
Piazza dei Miracoli
Piazza dei Miracoli literally means Marvels’ Square and is the main magnet for tourists in the city because this is where the tower is situated. However, besides the tower, there are a few other sights, which are worth your time: the Pisa cathedral, the Baptistery, the Monumental Cemetery and the Sinopie Museum. A combined ticket for everything, except for climbing the tower, costs 10€. But if you decide to also climb the tower, the combo ticket would be 27€. You can find out more about the different rate variations here. I personally did not feel like waiting on long lines and climbing an empty tower for additional 17€. Its most significant trait can only be seen from outside after all. But at the end of the day, it’s your call.
The piazza’s original name was far more prosaic than the name it goes by today. Originally it was called Piazza del Duomo. However, when Italian poet Gabriele D'Annunzio observed it from above during a flight in 1908, he called it "Prato dei Miracoli" (Meadow of Miracles) and then the new name stuck.
The Leaning Tower
The main highlight of a trip to Pisa is usually the tower. The reason for its infamous tilt to one side is a combination of factors, the most important of which is probably the local soil. The construction of the bell tower began in 1173 during a period of economic prosperity and military success. Only a couple of years later with the completion of the first two floors, the tower already begun to lean. This was due to the shallow only 3-meter-deep foundations in the unstable soft soil. The political situation by that time changed, however, so completing the monument was no longer a priority as resources were concentrated elsewhere. For about a century the construction stopped and the soil under settled for the time being. When in 1272 construction was resumed, the new architect made a decision to build the remaining floors taller on one side, in order to compensate for the tilt. The construction was not complete this time either due to another continuous period of turbulence, which put the project on hold. The tower finally got its bell chamber in 1372. It has 7 bells- one for each musical note.
Although you can climb the tower for a fee of around 20€, there is not much to see inside and you must be prepared to wait in line for quite some time. I’d much rather recommend catching beautiful views of it from the outside and especially from the remains of the fortress surrounding the tower and going forward another 3km to the city centre- Mura di Pisa.
Mura di Pisa
You can enter the Mura di Pisa from 4 locations, one of which is right behind the baptistery at the Square of Miracles. The entrance fee is only 5€- regular or 3€ for students. The whole trek is 3km long and ends in the city centre, close to the river Arno. Plan about 30-40min if you want to walk all the way through. It might take a little longer if you regularly stop for pictures, which you would feel like doing, because the views are simply stunning. See above for proof. It is also a great opportunity to observe the city from above and get a feeling of its spirit.
A walk by the riverside and amazing gelato
If you exit the Mura di Pisa at the last possible location, you will basically be a few steps away from the river Arno. I highly recommend a walk down the river, especially at sunset when it is particularly beautiful. Also, don’t miss the chance to stop by one of the gelato shops and to grab a cone. The most popular place is the Gelateria De’Coltelli, where you can find amazing bio gelato and different ice cream specials of superb quality. Don’t miss the chance to treat yourself.
Church Santa Maria della Spina
On the Southern bank of the river, you can find a tiny but beautiful church. It is right next to one of the bridges and on a small terrace over the water, which is why it was originally named Santa Maria di Pontenovo (Saint Mary by the New Bridge). Despite its size, you can’t really miss it, because it stands out with its marvellous gothic façade. It is open for visitors free of charge and is sometimes used as a site for art exhibitions.
Tuttomondo
And finally, if you still have energy and time, you can stop by the Tuttomondo artwork of American artist Keith Haring. It is often mentioned in local guides as one of the “must see” locations. If you are a fan of his work, then naturally this is indeed not to miss, but if you are not that much of an art enthusiast, don’t go out of your way to make a sighting of Tuttomondo possible. It is drawn on the side of a building close to the central railway station of Pisa and right next to a café, which seems to be very popular among young parents. For this reason, it is usually very crowded and noisy in front of it.
Don’t leave before trying the local food
Despite it not being a huge megapolis, Pisa has a very busy nightlife and culinary presence. You can easily find amazing eateries with a variety of wines and freshly cooked local dishes, which won’t cost you a fortune. Keep in mind service is as a rule included in the bill, but if you really enjoy your meal and want to tip, the staff would be very grateful for your gesture. Also, after lunch and between dinnertime many of the restaurants are closed, so there is a gap between around 3 PM and 7 PM, so plan accordingly. Stay tuned for the best places to eat!
Contrasting to the glamour of big cities, Pisa has the irresistible charm of an authentic local relatively small place. Its most memorable sights date back to the 13th century, so the city is rich history-wise, but not only. The well-preserved culinary traditions, welcoming locals and the joyous liveliness that fills the air make it well worth a visit.
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