When people talk about Lisbon, there's always this feeling of gentle appreciation that fills the air. It's not the loud, pompous romanticising that inevitably explodes in the room, when one mentions Paris or Rome for example. It's more like quiet astonishment, that almost borders with nostalgia. For me personally there's always been something mesmerising in the stories of those who visited the city- as if they were initiated into some secret. So no wonder Lisbon had been on my bucket list for quite some time and I just had to go there myself and see what the fuss was all about.
Well, it turned out it was not a very well kept secret, as it was crammed with tourists, despite the fact that I went there during the cold months, when the visitors flow should be lower. So lesson number one: prepare for fierce competition when you go about your regular touristy activities. Lisbon is one of the top 10 destinations in Europe and its mild weather even in winter makes it a popular destination all- year- round. If you add to that the marvelous cuisine, accompanied with fine wines, the rather affordable prices, its vicinity to sea resorts, the long history and the rich culture, resulting from the key position of the country on a crossing between Europe, Africa and the New World, it won't be that hard to comprehend what makes Lisbon a magnet for every traveler.
So if you want to find out how to make the most out of your stay, how to avoid tourist traps and which hotspots are really worth visiting, keep reading!
Brace yourself before your visit
As I mentioned already, the hordes of tourists that come to the city are not to be underestimated. And as the saying goes: the biggest rival of every tourist are the other tourists. So start your exploration of Lisbon earlier in the day and where possible book your tickets online in advance. Otherwise you will have to wait in long lines and might not be able to enter at all.
Another thing I wasn't prepared for was the quite unreliable public transport. Ironically the only regularity about it were the constant delays and the rather sudden changes in the routes. So keep your phone in hand with Google Maps open and track your route to avoid surprises. I recommend buying the Lisboa Card, which includes access to the top attractions in the city and an unlimited pass to the city transportation. It costs 20€ for 24h (34€/48h and 42€/72h) and you can buy it online and pick it up at the airport. Or if you prefer to pay only for transportations, tickets can be purchased at the ticket machines at all subway stations or inside the trams (cash only). The price for a single trip is 1,50€.
Transportation issues aside: all that trouble I experienced was generously compensated by the genuineness and warmth of the locals. Everyone was so helpful, polite and could speak English quite well.
Park Eduardo VII
It’s a good starting point for your Lisbon exploration, as it is right next to a subway station of the blue line, which also connects you with the city center. Plus, it is not so crowded earlier in the day and you can take stunning photos of the city beneath you, the park itself with its zig-zag-shaped bushes and even the sea in the distance. The park itself was named after the British king Edward VII, who visited Lisbon in 1903 to strengthen the relationship between the two countries. Another fun fact: the largest Portuguese flag in the world can normally be spotted near the Northern exit of the park.
Arco da Rua Augusta
I can’t recommend this one enough! After the park, take the blue line to the Merchant’s Square (Praca do Comercio). When you exit the underground station, you will basically find yourself on the sea shore. You can even smell the sea the moment you step out of the train and on the station. How cool is that?! Cross the square and head to the white marble arch. This place is also one of the stops of the famous tram line 28, which heads to Alfama, but more on this later.
Normally most people head to the Santa Justa elevator for a view of the city center from above and ignore the arch. Big mistake! The arch gives in my opinion a much more beautiful view not only of the main pedestrian street, but also of the square and the port. Not to mention that it is lesser known and you can enter basically immediately, while for Santa Justa you will have to queue for at least an hour. For holders of the Lisboa Card, entrance is free. Otherwise the price is 3€.
Elevator Santa Justa
The Santa Justa Lift is minutes away from the arch, but unlike it it is insanely crammed. Although I do recommend stopping by and taking a picture of the elevator from the outside, I personally did not think it’s worth it to waste precious time queueing for it (especially considering that it was raining). Would you really like to spend an hour or so waiting for a quick elevator ride? Although what do I know- I am a person who recently spent 40 minutes waiting in line for what are claimed to be the world’s best sandwiches, as you can read here. But that’s for food, it’s justified…plus, it was on a nice sunny day.
The Lift was opened to the public in 1902 and since then is probably the most outstanding feature of Lisbon’s public transportation system. That’s right- if you decide to ride the lift after all, you can enter for free not only with your Lisboa card, but also if you are a holder of a public transport combo ticket!
Viewing Point Santa Luzia (Miradouro)
Miradouro literally translates as a viewing place or a viewpoint. Since Lisbon is built around 7 hills, there are plenty of high places where you can enjoy a magnificent panorama of the city. Probably the most famous one is Santa Luzia. It is in the old district of Alfama, said to be one of the most beautiful parts of Lisbon.
The name comes from the Church of Saint Lucy, which is situated there at the terrace. From the romantic balcony you can have a good look of the city beneath you, the sea and the big cruise ships at the port. If you are lucky, you might also hear some street performances of fado.
Alfama
Alfama is probably the most picturesque and famous part of Lisbon. You can stroll down the steep narrow streets, which look as if they are a postcard coming to life or you can take one of the trams to get around. The route of tram 28 is famous as the most scenic one and Nr. 28 creeps through passages so narrow that you wonder if it will get stuck or scratch the nearby buildings. However, this specific line is insanely crammed. To the point that passengers' parts are hanging outside the tram’s coupe. You can always get an amazing shot of the tram from the outside (can’t really capture anything from the inside) without going through the hustle and bustle of a tram 28 ride.
But although Alfama has a polished fairytale look, it was not always the glamorous tourist magnet that we know today. Due to the aforementioned troubles navigating with the public transport, we had to uber and we so happened to come across an amazing and chatty uber driver who grew up in Alfama. He told us that back in his childhood, Alfama was quite a poor and dangerous district, distinguished among the Lisboners with notoriety. It was an arena for street gangs, drug dealers and pimps.
The authorities took measures to improve the district's infrastructure, evicted many of the problematic tenants and provided for stronger police presence. Now the neighbourhood holds the charm of times long gone without the dangerous air of the recent past. However, many of the buildings remain empty and are just a pretty facade for the tourists.
Museu Nacional do Azulejo
If there is one thing that screams “Portuguese” it is the masterfully painted tiles used for the decoration of buildings. In the local language they are called azulejo. With the Lisboa card, you can enter the tile museum for free and it gives you another advantage- you can skip the long ticket lines and enter with priority.
The museum’s impressive collection of tiles is worthy of a visit by itself, but besides it the museum holds a chapel, covered in gold and azulejo, historical halls and the history of the city illustrated through painted tile fragments. So it’s quite literally the azulejo history! It has an inner court with a pleasant garden cafe and if you are in luck, you might catch a workshop.
If you want to learn more about some of Lisbon’s hidden gems, that should definitely make it on your bucket list, stay tuned for Part 2 of our Lisbon exploration tour.
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