It’s been a while, since my first attempt to lay out all my impressions of Lisbon and the feelings it left me with. And now it’s time to bring that story to a conclusion- a great city like Lisbon deserves a proper ending. If this is the first time you stumble upon my blog, you might want to check the first part of my Lisbon journey here.
And this time I have prepared something extra special for you- a complete weekend itinerary to help you plan a visit of the city, downloadable for free. You can find it towards the end of this article.
Now, let’s see where we are at. Last time we ended the story with Museu Nacional do Azulejo. Which means we are just ready to take a well-deserved break from sightseeing (or not) and enjoy a hearty dinner at Casa do Alentejo.
Casa do Alentejo
Whether you are hungry for culture or food, Casa do Alentejo is definitely a good idea. The place, conveniently situated just 15-20 min by foot from Alfama, the Santa Justa Elevator and the Castle of São Jorge, has a great restaurant offering freshly prepared Portuguese delights. But this splendid architectural marvel is much more than an elegant eatery. Casa do Alentejo is a cultural centre of the Alentejo Colony in Lisbon. Alentejo is a region in Southern Portugal. In 1923 Alentejo- natives relocated in Lisbon created the Alentejo Guild and picked the house as their office and gathering point. But the history of the building dates centuries back. It was possibly built in the end of the seventeenth century, although it underwent multiple changes throughout its existence. Originally, it belonged to an aristocratic family and was known as Alverca Palace. In the beginning of the twentieth century, it was rented out to a company, which transformed a part of it into the first casino in Lisbon. Exactly during these years, the house underwent some renovations and got its appearance as we know it today. In 1932 it was rented out to the Alentejo society, and its name was changed to Casa do Alentejo.
Nowadays it is an important stage for various cultural and social events, such as book readings, fine arts and photography competitions, gastronomic weeks, social dances, cultural afternoons on Sundays. Whether you plan on having a meal there or prefer to just wander around and admire its stunning interiors, Casa do Alentejo is well worth a visit. Simply visiting will cost you nothing. But if you wish to have a meal there, check the working hours of the restaurant and the tavern, as Portuguese tend to have late dinners (after 9 PM) and ideally book a table in advance. And why not check in for one of their events? The agenda is available here.
Pink Street
It’s almost impossible nowadays to plan a trip to Lisbon without coming across Pink Street during your research. And for a good reason! It’s a picturesque colorful pedestrian street with pubs, restaurants and cafes lining along the sidewalk, it’s free to visit, and it’s within a walking distance from other famous sights (Arco da Rua Augusta, Elevator Santa Justa and the Merchant’s Square). It’s a great starting point for a day dedicated to exploring this part of the city, as it is best to come here in the morning. It is not yet crowded at around 9 AM and you can take some pretty photos without people. Also, if around that time you are ready for your first or second coffee of the day, you can have an aromatic cup of joy from the Copenhagen Coffee Lab, which is just around the corner. Be prepared to have it “to-go”, as the place is equally popular among locals and tourists.
Now, about Pink street itself: 10-15 min of your time for a quick stroll and some pictures will suffice. The street is rather small, so you don’t need to plan a long stay. As the name suggests, the pavement in the area is painted pink and there are some umbrellas hanging overhead, adding some charm. But don’t expect too much. It’s the type of place you promptly stop by while on your way to other sights. It is not some kind of cultural or architectural marvel. It is a rather small area and don’t be surprised if you see some graffiti and trash on its intersecting streets. As the appearance of the place, so its culture is also rather colorful. It used to be an area occupied by gambling establishments, brothels and a gathering point for outlaws. But don’t forget that this is equally valid for the most visited area of Lisbon nowadays- Alfama, which in no way diminishes its charm. With that being said, it felt in no way unsafe or shady. We even came back for lunch and had a rather satisfying and affordable set meal at restaurant Rio Grande.
Jeronimos Monastery
Now, this is a true gem, often overlooked by many tourists, but in my opinion the place most worthy of a visit in the Portuguese capital. It is located in the Belem neighborhood on the Western side of the city, so you could easily plan your itinerary around visiting both sights on the same day- the monastery and the Belem Tower. It is true that I have a soft spot for gothic architecture, but it is hard to stay indifferent to its marvel. So don’t be surprised if you catch yourself gasping with astonishment once you set foot inside it.
Towards the end of the fifteenth century the premises were chosen by King Manuel I as the official necropolis of the royal Aviz dynasty. But besides the royals, another prominent Portuguese has found his final resting place in the monastery. Since 1880 an intricate sarcophagus, created by sculptor Costa Mota, is holding the remains of Vasco da Gama in the Monastery's church. In fact, a tense night at this location spent in prayer by Vasco da Gama and his crew, marks the beginning of their expedition to India in 1497. Back then there was no monastery yet, but rather a church of Santa Maria de Belém, which belonged to the religious- military Order of Christ, who provided shelter and support to seafarers on their way to marine expeditions. It was King Manuel I who requested that a monastery is built at the side of the old church.
The construction lasted for approximately 100 years and was at first financed by King Manuel I via a tax on the import from Africa and the Orient. 70 kilograms of gold per year were devoted to this mission, so the architects working on the project had a rather good financing, allowing them to create a splendid construction. The monastery was modeled after the style Manueline, also known as Portuguese Late Gothic, but as later another architect took over, the appearance was influenced by some Spanish Plateresque style. Without having any deep knowledge of 16th century Iberian art and architecture, in my modest opinion exactly this mixture of inspirations and influences is what makes the building the absolute masterpiece that it is today.
So why the name Jeronimos Monastery? Simple, after commissioning the construction of the monastery, King Manuel I selected the order of the Hieronymite monks to be the new residents of the building. Their main assignments were to pray for the King's eternal soul and to continue providing passing-by sailors with spiritual guidance and shelter.
Belem Tower
Perhaps the furthest West from all the main sights of Lisbon is the Belem Tower, which is fortunately easy to reach by public transport (trams), even if the journey takes a while. As already mentioned, it would be great to plan a visit along with the Jeronimos Monastery, since the two are in the same part of the city and near each other. This UNESCO World Heritage site was built in the 16th century and was the ceremonial gate to Lisbon. It is a symbol of Europe’s Age of Discoveries. Similarly to the Jeronimos Monastery, the construction belongs to the Manueline style, along with other influences skillfully mixed into it. And just like the monastery, the construction of the Belem Tower was commissioned by King Manuel I. However, this was not his original idea, but something he took over from his predecessor King John II. John II first recognized the fortifications over the Tagus River were not sufficient to protect Lisbon from potential foes, approaching from the Atlantic via the river, and there was a need to build a new stronger fort.
Apart from this pragmatic purpose of the tower, it was given also a more symbolic ceremonial significance. It was a form of celebrating the round trip of the Portuguese to India and the wonders they saw in these distant Eastern lands.
As the tower is on the shore, keep in mind that it tends to be rather windy there. We personally only saw it from outside, so half an hour (or even less) is just enough for a visit. But if you wish, you can also go inside and tickets are available for purchasing online here.
Lisbon Oriente
And finally, if you are in the mood for a more alternative and a free to visit place, I’d suggest stopping at the Lisbon Oriente train station. If you are travelling to or from Sintra by train, which is actually quite convenient, usually the trains run through this station, so it would be easy to check it off your list without a major detour.
To set the right expectations, it is what it is- a train station. But the architectural design, in which it was built, sets it apart from your average station and turns it into more of a piece of art. During my intellectual property law classes at the university, this station would often be given as an example for an artistic design, which goes beyond its intended functionality. It comes to show that something as practical as a train station, which has the specific purpose of being a hub for transporting people and goods, can still be beautiful and creative. It is a beautiful mixture of modernism with some influences from Gothic architecture. The arches over the train platforms closely resemble a cathedral.
So, what do you think? Would you give Lisbon a go and if so, which places are you most excited to visit? To make it easier for you, I am sharing below a free 2- day travel plan, which we personally followed, so I can confirm it is realistic. You can use it as an inspiration for your own trip to the Portuguese capital. Enjoy!
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